A sealant will repel staining agents but doesn’t make marble stain-proof. You can test if you need to reseal by dropping water on the surface – if the water no longer beads, it’s time to reseal.
Vinegar, citrus, and tomato will corrode marble; don’t let it sit on the stone. Wipe up spills immediately.
Avoid using acidic or abrasive cleaners.
To remove stubborn stains, use a poultice paste. Spread it onto the stain, then cover with plastic wrap sealed with painters’ tape. Once it’s dry (12 to 24 hours), scrape the paste off and wipe with a damp cloth. For deep-set stains, you may need to reapply paste.
Our wood blocks are untreated when delivered, if you prefer you can treat them with oil or varnish. Yet, color might change related to treatment.
Wood is a natural material and all wooden furniture is unique. Vines and twigs are a natural part of the wood and there are not two wooden furniture that are exactly the same. The wood is constantly changing, which means that its color and structure change during the entire life of the furniture.
Wipe the furniture with a clean, dry cotton cloth. Dirty surfaces can be wiped off with a solution consisting of 1/4 dl of soap flakes dissolved in 1 liter of warm water. Allow the solution to cool slightly until lukewarm. Never use brown or green soap.
Immediately wipe off any soap residue with a clean, dry cloth. Soap helps protect the wood. Untreated wood must not be wet for too long, so you should immediately drought it. Rear and underside should also be treated otherwise the wood may strike.
Careful cleaning can be done with a soft brush – remember to immediately dry the furniture. Fat stains that do not disappear from this treatment, you can try to remove with chemically pure gasoline. If you treat the wood with brush and gasoline, the fibers can rise. Grind lightly in the direction of the grain with fine sandpaper No. 220. Do not use steel wool as it gives rust spots.